Santorini. The holiday brochures always show photographs of white ‘sugar cube’ buildings sitting on volcanic burgundy red outcrops. An island described as ’Steeped in history’ I set out to explore. My home for 4 nights was a 3-man dome tent (my own) at the ‘Thira Campsite’ 350 yards east of the town centre and away from the rim.
A trek across the Santorini rim from Thira (The Capital) to Oia its most northerly point on the Island, Is on offer.
We start the following morning in Thira and walk to Oia 5 miles to the north following the edge of the rim and taking goat paths that Kostas (Our guide) had safely walked in the past, there we’ll have late lunch and take a speed boat to Thira walking back up the steps and home.
Peter, Marian, Stefanos & Georgios a Danish couple living in Holland, and two army fitness instructors looking for a hiking adventure are my companions. Then there’s Kostas a Zorba moustache under his black Captains hat, tatty deck shoes and whirly beads in back pocket. The nonchalant trekking professional, so in tune with his surroundings, so out of place in an expedition. Yet our confidence grew the sense of adventure begins as we have a real local that knows the place and so keen to share his knowledge. Starting in Thira we amble threw the backstreet and emerge above the rim. A cool breeze envelops us.
Santorini’s panorama is laid out before us; below cruise ships the size of match sticks float patiently, waiting to offload their passengers. White lines can be seen in deep blue showing the ferry route to ‘Nea Kameni’ the volcanic island in the centre of Santorini’s caldera.
Our path leads us along the rim the breeze cooling us most of the time, Oia our destination is never far from view.
Imerovigli a village situated on the highest cliffs overlooking the caldera is 1 mile to the north of Thira. Walking
Leaving ‘Imerovigli‘ we continue along our path. Wild flowers are dotted here and there entwined amongst rocks, sheltering from the worst of the sun. Red poppies, blue lupines and white/yellow chrysanthemum. Heading down we switch between goat tracks that only our guide knows. Kostas lofty gait ‘deceptively fast’ leaves us stretched out behind. This is definatly a goat’s domain.
Oia is very near now; we are heading for a fish taverna called ‘Kyma’ at Ammoudi Bay, Oia’s port. “The coolest place on the island” says Kosta with a grin “it’s cooled by the ‘Meltemi’ wind that blows through the Aegean.”
Kyma Taverna at Ammoudi Bay is alive with activity, fresh fish landed on the key side are sorted and displayed for purchase, children run between the restaurants tables playing tag then jump into the sea to avoid capture. The air is filled with the aroma of grilled fish, peppers and lemons. A table at the key side is selected by Kostas, feet from the sea and sheltered from the sun by a yacht sail used as an awning. Within minute’s plates of sardines, red mullet and swordfish dripping in lemon juice and spices are served. Olive’s, dolmades and taramasalata cover the remainder of our large table.
As time passes I see a fishermen end his day. Yellow nets sorted and cleaned lay drying on his caique. The sun, low in the sky glitters in the calm sea.
Kostas arranges our transport and we’re whisked away in a modern speedboat. Traveling at full throttle we skim along a millpond at breakneck speed. The cliffs echo our passage as we race towards Thira our journey ending all to soon.
Getting there…
Flight…
Flight Scanners an airline price comparison site. They compare the major European budget airlines prices. http://www.skyscanner.net
Ferries…
Ferries from Piraeus (Athens Harbour) to Santorini cost £50 return economy class tickets bought through http://www.greekferries.gr/
Staying there…
I stayed at the ‘Santorini Campsite’ for 4 nights costing at £8.90 per night. But you will need your own tent. With bar and pool with good security lockers for your valuables. http://www.santorinicamping.gr/
Perissa Camping is on the southeast edge of Santorini with bar and pool also with security lockers and plenty of shady trees.
http://www.travel-to-santorini.com/camping/perissa/perissacamping/
For more comfort try in A, B or C, class hotels try…
http://www.book-santorini-hotels.com/
David is a Commercial Photographer, Travel Writer with a passion for sailing amongst the Greek Islands. He has spent 4 years living in Corfu and 2 in Athens. His knowledge of Greece stems from his years travelling amongst the islands on commission.
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